Tough to get it all in one shot but anchor trolleys run from stern to carrying handle, and then from carrying handle to bow on both sides.
The anchor trolley on my Trident 13 goes from bow to stern on both sides of the kayak. It’s kind of a blend between Cory Routh’s original install and Lt.FireDog’s (from the kayakfishingstuff.com forum) no-drill anchor trolley. I used the existing deck line mounts to act as line guides and then added 4 deck loops on each side of the kayak to secure the bow and stern pulleys to the hull. In total I have 4 shuttles – two in front of the side carrying handles and two behind.
Some people just install one trolley on one side of the kayak. I like having the ability to anchor from either end – or either side of the boat – so I installed anchor trolleys on both sides. Shifting winds and tides, and varying fishing locations can call for different anchoring scenarios, so I wanted something versatile. So far I’m happy with the install and like that I only had to mount four deck loops for the entire system. It’s clean, neat, and was easy to install using materials I had leftover from other projects.
Materials used:
- @ 40′ of reflective deck line (4 pieces)
- 8 stainless steel pulleys
- @ 40″ of bungee shock cord (4 pieces of equal length)
- 4 carabiners or heavy-duty plastic clips
- 4 deck loops
- 12 well nuts and stainless steel bolts
- 2 zig zag cleats
This is one of the the stern pulleys. It's secured to the hull with a deck loop and a bungee cord.
1) My setup uses a total of 8 stainless steel pulleys. Tie a pulley into a piece of bungee cord with an overhand loop. I use the knot as the stopping point to keep them lashed to the hull with a deck loop (bow and stern) or the existing deck line mounting (midship). I wanted to keep the end lash point close to the end of the boat so the bungee loop itself doesn’t need to be a real big – maybe 3-4″ from the knot to the end of the loop.
2) Measure and mark eye holes of the deck loop on the hull – I did this on either side of the bow and stern. Check and make sure the marks still match up with the deck loop eyes befre you drill. Drill out holes. Place well nuts. Seal the hole with Marine Goop. Place the pulley and shock cord through the deck loop eye and mount the deck loop with stainless steel bolts. Do this on both sides of the bow and stern.
This is one of the mid-ship pulleys secured to the hull with existing deck line mounts and a bungee cord loop.
3) Tie the mid-ship pulleys into the existing deck line mounts immediately in front of and behind the side carrying handles.
4) Once all of the pulleys of the anchor trolley are mounted, thread a piece of 5mm cord (I used the reflective kind) through the deck line mounts and into pulleys. Work the end back to the pulley – one side of the shuttle loop should be able to run unobstructed from front to back without running through any of the line guides.
Notice how the line runs through the deck line guides on one side but not on the other. This keeps line organized and allows the clip-loop connection to move freely to the terminal end of the shuttle loop.
5) Tie in the anchor line clip or carabiner on one end of the cord. Measure enough line to keep it taught against the hull and on the other end of the line tie an overhand loop. Secure the loop into the clip. The bungee shock cord should flex a little and allow for a taught shuttle cord loop. Once the clip-to-loop connection is made it should smoothly run from mid ship to the bow or stern without much pressure.
Here the anchor line clip and loop lie flush against the hull of the boat.
6) Burn off all frayed ends of bungee shock cord and knots in the line.
7) Mount zig zag cleats on either side behind the seat
One of the zig zag cleats installed behind the seat.
